Sustainability reporting

Strategic innovation in fashion: Master students enhance H&M group’s sustainability path and competitive edge

Business strategy, Circular economy, Sustainability, Technology /

Disclaimer: This article is based on case studies chosen by Catherine Schoendorff during her July 2024 class at Harbour Space University Barcelona. The insights presented are derived from analyzing H&M Group’s 2023 annual and sustainability report. The students did not engage directly with H&M or its representatives. The course aimed to foster entrepreneurial thinking, understand CEO decision-making, lead change, and highlight pathways for business model innovation that meshes sustainability and digital business transformation. In a world where fashion trends come and go, the need to blend digital business transformation with sustainability remains constant. Imagine a group of visionary Master’s students stepping into the shoes of industry giants like H&M, armed with fresh ideas and innovative strategies to revolutionize fashion. This isn’t just an academic exercise—it’s a blueprint for a regenerative, more circular future. Figure 1: H&M Group’s Circular Customer Journey (Source: Annual and Sustainability Report 2023, page 22) Sustainability is a critical priority for several reasons. It is essential for regulatory compliance, which serves as a business’s license to operate. Mostly compliance drove sustainability efforts. However, it’s time for senior leaders to embed sustainability as a core element of entrepreneurial thinking and business vision. This ensures regulatory compliance, propels the company to its next exciting chapters, and shields against business models that exploit resources without regard for social and environmental impact. The challenge – reimagining a fashion giant H&M Group, a global fashion powerhouse with over 5,000 stores in 70 countries, has set an ambitious goal to become 100% circular and climate-positive by 2040. For instance, H&M collaborates with Canvaloop, an India-based startup that converts agricultural waste into eco-friendly fibers. This collaboration exemplifies H&M’s commitment to reducing carbon emissions and promoting sustainability in the fashion industry. Figure 2: www.canvaloop.com/fibres  H&M’s 80% stake in Sellpy, a second-hand fashion leader, demonstrates a commitment to circular fashion, with over 20 million items resold across 24 markets. While this aligns with H&M’s sustainability goals, it contrasts with the ongoing promotion of hyper-fast fashion. The challenge ahead lies in reconciling these efforts—ensuring that circular initiatives aren’t overshadowed by the pace of fast fashion, but rather integrated to build a truly sustainable business model. But how does a company of this scale transform its operations to accelerate its 2040 target and create a unique competitive edge, especially with pressure from competitors like SHEIN? The students were tasked with reimagining H&M’s sustainability strategy, focusing on denim jeans—one of fashion’s most iconic items. They aimed to augment H&M’s strategy with fresh, innovative ideas and conceive new revenue streams using restorative and regenerative models. A structured approach to transformation: innovating through circular efficiency For this purpose, a comprehensive playbook was designed to enhance sustainability while uncovering new revenue streams and collaborative opportunities. This approach addresses current sustainability challenges and paves the way for innovative business models. The playbook ensures a seamless transition from the normative-strategic layer to the strategic-operational layer and back, enabling a new company vision, mission, and purpose: Comprehensive report analysis: Examine the company’s latest annual and sustainability reports with multiple AI tools to establish a baseline for current practices, goals, and areas for improvement. Product line focus: Select a specific product line as a starting point. The students concentrated on denim jeans, creating scalable solutions for quick implementation. Business Model Canvas mapping: Capture existing key activities, resources, and partners for the chosen product line (value proposition). Circular economy integration: Apply circular economy principles to key activities and resources, focusing on the 7Rs framework (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, Recover, Redesign, Remanufacture, and Repurpose) and reverse logistics. Propose changes to the existing business model, such as increasing the use of recycled materials and implementing take-back schemes. Business model adaptation: Work on changing and adopting new key activities, resources, and partners for the changed value proposition. The aim is to identify areas where sustainability leads to groundbreaking solutions through collaborative innovation and create additional revenue streams. Strategic alignment: Use tools like e.g. the Ecosystemizer strategy map to ensure proposed innovations align with the company’s broader market strategies and long-term goals. Figure 3: Adapted Degenerative – Regenerative Spectrum 7. Impact assessment: During the entire playbook process, evaluate the restorative and regenerative process on the degenerative – regenerative spectrum. 8. Implementation planning: Evaluate ERP solutions that integrate circular business models. 9. Scalability planning: In the next step, develop a roadmap for scaling successful initiatives across other product lines or the entire business This playbook challenged students to see where they truly are on the degenerative – regenerative spectrum to propose transformative changes for H&M’s sustainability strategy. Innovative collaborations: pioneering sustainable solutions A key element in H&M’s case was the analysis of a potential collaboration between H&M, IKEA, and a startup called FAB.Brick. This partnership would take the concept of textile recycling a step further by repurposing unsold products into bricks for furniture, creating a closed-loop system that benefits multiple companies while reducing waste.  Figure 4: FAB.Brick offers a range of innovative products made from recycled textile waste. Pictures publicly available by FAB.Brick. FAB.Brick is recognized for its innovative approach to transforming textile waste into durable construction materials. By partnering with this startup, H&M and IKEA could leverage their existing collaboration focused on recycled textiles, which has already led to significant advancements in understanding the chemical content of post-consumer textiles. This approach goes beyond a joint industry study, initiated in 2019 (Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference), that aims to increase the utilization of recycled materials while ensuring safety and compliance with environmental standards The collaboration with FAB.Brick aligns seamlessly with H&M and IKEA’s commitment to sustainability and their goal of using 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030. By integrating FAB.Brick’s expertise in waste transformation, the partnership could not only address the issue of unsold inventory but also contribute to the development of sustainable furniture products, which could be also used by H&M and IKEA for some of their store concepts. While SHEIN’s model is based on speed, variety, and low costs, H&M’s strategy emphasizes integrating sustainability with strategic growth, while raising

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Why it is important to measure the impact your business model has on the economy, the environment and people?

Business strategy, Sustainability /

There are various environmental, social and governance (ESG) standards, frameworks, ratings and rankers, when it comes to how sustainability is measured and achieved. Delving into these standards, including new standards from the European Union (EU), is hard work and time consuming. And conflicts with the reason why you as a company are seeking for this information and guidance.  Hopefully, you want more than just compliant.  You want to be a responsible business and position sustainable behavior at the heart of your business model. The myriad of ways sustainability performance is accounted doesn’t help. Yet standards alone have the capacity to drive consistent sustainability disclosure. Reporting that is in the public interest, and independent.   The EU has introduced a classification system, a “taxonomy”, of sustainable activities, with criteria for when they may be defined as sustainable. If your business activity is listed in the taxonomy and you fulfill all criteria, the associated revenue, capital expenditures and operational expenses with that activity are considered “EU taxonomy aligned”. From 1 January 2022,  all large or listed companies are required to report their EU taxonomy alignment, along with relevant non-financial information that helps investors, financiers or the public to assess your ESG performance.  In this regard, the EU defines all large companies as companies with more than 250 employees, and with more than 20 million euros total assets on the balance sheet or revenues of more than 40 million euros. Small and medium sized companies (SMEs) may report on a voluntary basis. But the proposal will extend the scope of sustainability reporting requirements to all companies (except listed micro-companies).  The aim of the EU of introducing a standard like the EU Taxonomy is to promote investments in sustainable activities. And the financial sector can play a key role in a transition to a sustainable world; because of the capital flows that run through the financial sector. Banks can contribute by taking sustainability criteria into account in credit decisions and offering customers sustainable products. In short, in the (near) future your non-financial information and ESG performance will play an essential role whether a bank will invest in your company or provide a loan. So, it’s time to act now! However, most small businesses don’t have the capacity or money to focus on sustainability or a sustainable strategy to reduce emissions. Consequently, the lack of access to finance will play a key preventing factor in their future operations. One can make the assumption the path to a sustainable future is much easier for a large corporate than for smaller SMEs. As access to capital markets is generally not at the disposal of the smaller companies that make about 90% of the businesses globally, providing half of all employment.  As capital is a key enabler of a sustainable supply chain, the supply chain participants – large corporates, banks and governments – need to collaborate. They can co-invest, provide liquidity, share knowledge on how to strategize sustainability, and pass on innovation and technologies across the supply chain. To create or modify incentives to persuade supply chain partners to behave in ways that are best for everybody. To make sure supply chains work well and its participants interests are aligned.  Techniques as receivable finance and Supply Chain Finance, in general, can play an important role in achieving what’s best for your company, your business model, your supply chain, and to what extent you’re ‘sustainable’.  Want to learn more about how that works? Call now to learn why our service is right for you, and let’s work together! Alternatively, maximize your toolkit with actionable insights on how regulatory changes, business strategies and innovative financing structures are evolving around the ESG issues. A lot of information can be found at BCR’s Receivables Finance ESG and Sustainability webinar; see the full program here: https://bcrpub.com/events/receivables-finance-esg-and-sustainability-webinar.

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